Saturday, February 18, 2012

Organic cotton in Peru

In February we got to visit organic cotton fields near Pisco (3 hours south of Lima on the Peruvian Coast) with visiting friends Liz and Hazem. They sell organic cotton women's sleepwear, which we highly recommend. Here's the link to their business: http://www.vieandsomn.com/

Because Valerie now works for an agriculture for development organization, she has learned a lot about sustainable agriculture and the incredibly complex processes involved in receiving international certifications for quality, including organic production. Seeing the fields and hearing about all the steps involved in certified cotton products was especially interesting. Plus, we got to meet a farmer, whose family is deeply engaged in sustainable production and social causes. They are originally from the highlands of Cajamarca (northern Andean region of Peru), where their farmland was appropriated by the military government in the 1970s. Still devoted to that area they do things like provide free breakfasts to local schoolchildren. But they also have explored other regions of the country, like land around Pisco, where they could move into new crops and activities.

The organic cotton seed comes from the northern coast of Peru. And the suppliers did not believe that this family would be able to grow the organic variety in the south. But grow it they do. The plants were in flower while we visited, with fragile yellow and red flowers that only last for a few days.

The trip was also a chance for us to enjoy one of our favorite parts of Peru, the coastal area and national reserve around Paracas. It's a wonderful weekend getaway for those of us living in Lima. The desert colors are spectacular and ever changing. You can count on seeing sunshine, even in the middle of winter. And this time of year (summer) there are all kinds of birds (local and migrating).

We don't know if the cotton in the fields we visited will end up in the clothes you can order from Vieandsomn. But either way, we highly recommend both!
 The two guys on the right are beating the odds by growing organic cotton in a part of the country where the seed producers didn't think it would work.
 Blue sky, sandy soil, and cotton plants full of flowers

 Kayaking in Paracas with blue skies and lots of birds
 Flamingos taking flight as we approach in our kayaks.
 The Peruvian flag, red and white striped, is said to have been inspired by the colors of the flamingos.
 This was the first of numerous giant jelly fish we encountered. We were glad to be in kayaks rather than swimming. This one was over a meter long with huge tentacles.
 Another jelly fish with shorter tentacles than the first, but still nasty looking and imposing.


This photo was taken in the Paracas reserve in the late afternoon after the fog rolled in. We were overlooking the rock formation known as the Cathedral. It was totally masked by the fog, and the point looked like the end of the earth.
Watching the fog roll in.
 A spectacular sunset inspired rock album poses.

 More sunset and feeling of being on the edge of the world.

 On our way to the Islas Ballestas, known as the Peruvian version of the Galapagos Islands. The comparison is generous, but you do get to see thousands of birds, including penguins, rare red-footed cormorants, Nasca boobies, even some blue-footed boobies, and lots of sea lions.
 The Candalabra petroglyph on the coast. Its age and purpose are unclear, and it is impressive for the way it remains clearly etched in the landscape despite shifting sands and winds.
 Islas Ballestas archway filled with sea lions.
Humboldt penguins, living peacefully alongside pelicans and lots of other birds.
 Red-footed cormorant (center) with Peruvian terns
 Blue-footed boobies - though the beaks and feet are not as bright blue as the ones in the Galapagos Islands

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Galapagos 2012

To ring in the New Year 2012, we flew back from the US on a flight that landed in Lima just after the stroke of midnight on January 1. The result was that we were treated to an amazing display of fireworks from every neighborhood of the city - indeed, nearly every street corner.
After celebrating New Year's Day with friends and showing our faces at work for a week, we started off the year 2012 with a trip to the Galapagos Islands...!

This is definitely a trip for the bucket list.

The Galapagos are unique, fascinating, and still very pristine. Located 1,000 kilometers from the mainland (Ecuador), they sit right on the equator. But thanks to the cold water of the Humboldt and other currents, the temperatures are mild even in mid summer. And the wildlife, including marine life, is remarkable and rich.

Though the islands are relatively close to each other, they are surprisingly diverse in flora, fauna, and atmosphere. Some are lush and green, others dry or barren. The colors vary from a deep black volcanic rock to rich red.  The ocean water is clear and blue. You can see sharks and sea turtles from a boat - or up close and personal while snorkeling, as we did.

The numbers of visitors and boats are strictly regulated, so that you are never part of a crowd - well not a human crowd. The animals are completely unafraid of humans, so you can go right up to them. Or they'll come right up to you.

 Land iguana on Santa Cruz Island, Dragon Hill
 Sea lion emerging from the shade on Rabida Island
 The famous Blue-footed Booby.
 Crabs and sparkling blue water
 Marine iguana on Rabida Island
 Family shot from the top of Rabida Island
 Looking down from the top of Rabida, you can see our ship, The Odyssey,  which was great. Very professional crew and guide. Spacious rooms and decks. Even a small jacuzzi.
 Ready for snorkeling, which we got to do several times. The marine life is amazing. Fish of all colors, including parrot fish, clown fish, and countless others swimming in schools and bright colors. We also swam with sea lions, sea turtles, and several reef sharks (didn't see any hammerheads), and saw plenty of sting rays in different shapes and sizes.
 On an island called Chinese Hat, which we shared with lots of sea lions and their pups, some Galapagos hawks, and a fair number of marine iguanas
 Galapagos penguins. Watching them chase schools of little fish in the water was a treat.
 The island of Genovesa is just north of the Equator. The boat goes into a lagoon, which is actually a big volcanic crater filled with water. Above on the rocks are lots (!!) of birds.
 On Genovesa
 This is a Red-footed Booby, among the very many on Genovesa
 On Darwin Bay, Genovesa, we decided we'd like a family shot with the sea lion...
 ..she decided to be a more integral part of the photo...
 ... and having posed with the group, decided to take a nap.
 Jumping off the ship at sunset.
 Climbing to the top of Bartolome Island
 Master and Commander view from the top of Bartolome, that's the Pinnacle Rock.
 Gwinner guys on Bartolome
 Walking on the rope lava of Bartolome. Not a very inviting landscape.
 The designs in the lava are impressive.
 In the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, we finally saw the famous Galapagos tortoises.

 With some Nazca Boobies on Genovesa Island
 Beautiful beaches and water, amazing wildlife, what's not to like?
 View from a hilltop in Guayaquil, on the mainland of Ecuador

Guayaquil, departure and arrival point for many of the Galapagos flights