Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Callao

Callao is a neighborhood of Lima located to the NW of the old historic center. This is where the ports (leisure and cargo) and international airport are located. It's also where our poor car is sitting idly, caught in bureaucratic/immigration tangles from which it may never emerge - but that's another story.

The sections around the airport and cargo ports are not especially pleasant. In fact, the port section is said to be quite dangerous. But, at the very end of Callao, where the land makes a peninsula known as La Punta, there is a very pretty residential section. It includes some very lovely mansions left over from the early 20th century when wealthy Limenas built their vacation houses here. There's also the pleasure port with its Yaught Club.

Near la Punta is a massive fort, called Castillo de Real Felipe. It was originally built in the 1850s to protect the city from pirates. It is shaped like a pentagon, with guard towers in each corner. There are two large towers within the fort, which offered a second layer of protection if the invaders made it past the outer walls and cannons of the fort.

One of the fort's most famous moments was on May 2, 1866, during the Battle of Callao. This is when the Spanish fleet tried to reconquer Peru, which had become independent. The Peruvians were allied with Chile, Bolivia, and Ecuador, and managed to successfully fend off the Spanish attack with no real damage to the city. It is considered a moment of great victory, and there are numerous streets and avenues in Lima named Dos de Mayo.

The fort is currently unoccupied, but it is used for naval drills and ceremonies. There is a modern conference center in the middle (something of an eyesore, in fact). The fort also contains a military museum, filled with the usual displays of cannons, weapons, uniforms, and bronze busts of military leaders.

In 1746, an enormous tsumani, caused by an earthquake, covered the entire port of Calloa, the fort, and much of the La Punta peninsula destroying or damaging much in its path.
This sign warns about moving to higher ground in case of an earthquake. The map to the right shows the wide flood zone, which includes all of La Punta.

The old mansions of La Punta remind many people of Havana. I've never been there, but they reminded me of San Francisco, particularly since it was a foggy afternoon.


One of the towers within the fortress contains a dungeon, full of labyrinthian corridors

This display of ladies' hats caught my eye, because of its sharp contrast with the rest of the fort, which was very masculine and militaristic.


There was a funeral service taking place while we were visiting, with guards in dress uniforms, drums, and plenty of pomp.

No comments:

Post a Comment