Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley

Machu Picchu loses none of it's magic the second time around - and I presume that's true no matter how many times one visits it.

It is early fall here in Peru, and that means it's still the rainy season (winter - July-August - is the dry season). We did get rain, but also mist and sunshine. The sky and clouds were constantly changing, at times completely obscuring the ruins or mountains. But then you would look again and it had all changed once more.

Because Steven and I arrived in Aguas Calientes (the village below Machu Picchu) the night before our visit we were able to 1. enjoy the local hot springs (where you can order pisco sours from the hot baths) and 2. get to Machu Picchu in the early morning. Arriving at the ruins early meant that we were able to climb Huayna Picchu, which is a big tall mountain next to the Machu Picchu mountain. The number of visitors allowed to go up Huayna Picchu each day is restricted, so you do have to get there before mid-morning. The climb is steep and vertiginous. But the views of Machu Picchu are magnificent, and when you reach the top there is an added suprise - yet another set of hidden ruins.
Machu Picchu gaurdhouse, agricultural sector

View of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu

View out two of the windows of the Temple of Three Windows

Climbing Huayna Picchu

Afternoon rain, and the ruins began to disappear.

These are views of Ollantaytambo, which lies in the Sacred Valley and features an Inca fortress, other Inca ruins, and Inca walls throughout the cobblestoned village.

The sign reads, Multiservicios Valeria. My new side business.

We hiked up the mountain on the opposite side of the village from the Ollantaytambo ruins to another set of ruins perched on a steep hillside. The vistas were magnificent.

Cusco parade

Cusco is famous for having lots of festivals, seemingly every weekend according to the locals. The first time we visited, we ran across a festival in honor of "Amistad" taking place in the neighborhood of San Blas. This time we ran across a bigger festivity, a big parade in honor of the anniversary of the founding of the Instituto Nacional de Cultura. We were clued into the fact that people were preparing for a parade when we saw a number of folks walk into the building of the Instituto accompanied by horses and people in brightly colored costumes.
The parade took place along the main Avenida del Sol and included lots of dancers, musicians, and even a few floats.

Back to Cusco

A visit from our friend Steven provided a great excuse to go back to Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu.
Though starting in Cusco is difficult because of the altitude (higher than the other two areas), it is a great place to visit. The back streets of the old town are endlessly interesting, with Inca stonework, cobbled streets, and colorful people and places. It's also a very lively city, with lots of festivals and people coming and going. And everywhere around the city are amazing Andes mountains.


Sacsayhuaman, an Inca fortress that sits above the city of Cusco, with amazing stonework.

The back streets of San Blas, the artsy neighborhood of Cusco.

This is the Mercado Central, where you can purchase anything from underwear to flowers, bread, and pigs' heads.

Lima architecture

Lima is not a beautiful city. It's a mish mash of different styles, of old and new, high rises and small houses. The look and feel of Lima can be chaotic, which is only reinforced by the crazy traffic.
But it's also a city full of color, especially on a sunny day. And there are interesting patterns and juxtapositions.
These photos are from our neighborhood of San Isidro, as well as from the fun and funky area of Barranco.

Barranco

Barranco is the funky, bohemian neighborhood of Lima. It is located on the ocean, with access to a very popular beach, where we occasionally have our surfing classes. There are lovely old mansions in Barranco, left over from the days when wealthy Limenos had country houses here. The neighborhood fell into disrepair at one point, and has come back as a center of art, music, culture, and night life. The mansions and streets reflect a certain shabby gentility, but are also lively and charming.

This first photo shows the small pedestrian street that winds down to the beach, lined with houses and restaurants.

This is a very cool shop in Barranco where you can get anything from furniture, clothing, and decorative items to lunch in a lovely cafe.

Puruchuco

Puruchuco is a site located on the outskirts of Lima. It was formerly the Palace, (like a governor's palace) of a local leader and dates from the Inca period (1450-1530 AD). It included a private residence, areas for public activities, and areas for farm animals and products. The ruins were "reconstructed" in the 1950s-early 60s to replicate the look and feel of a real Inca building. Inside, it feels more like a labyrinth than anything else, with little rooms for worship, niches for religious idols and such, and many dead ends.
Because of the way it has been reconstructed and use of adobe, it made me think much more of Georgia O'Keefe paintings than of Inca images.

The site contains a museum, which has a pretty courtyard.

These photos present some of the wonderful textiles discovered at this site.

The cats and monkeys are especially irresistable.